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RCoapman
Joined: 09 Feb 2005
Posts: 5141
Location: Back in the snowy homeland10/24/18 10:40 AM |
More CX brake questions
In addition to fixing the squeal I'm also considering a new, disk-capable frame and xfering all the bits over...I've got Athena 11spd levers with CX brake levers....can they work with disc brakes or would I need to change those as well?
The redline is a bit of a FrankenBike. Shimano pedals, sram cranks, and Athena drivetrain, but it still works great. I'd like to keep as much as possible but I've forgotten so many details of bike stuff...
I have no current intention of racing again. Ain't nobody got time for that, but I'd like to start riding more for fitness. Any recommendations for a low-mid range frame comparable to Redline Conquest Pro quality?
(I can't bloody well believe they discontinued those. [more bad words]!!)
I'd go down to OR to steal Bob's but I'd also have to buy a ladder to get on and off the damned thing.
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19079
Location: PDX10/24/18 11:37 AM |
"I've got Athena 11spd levers with CX brake levers....can they work with disc brakes or would I need to change those as well? "
If you stick with Road disc calipers you will be fine. I like the TRP Spyres personally as far as cable actuated disc calipers. I also highly recommend Swiss Stop green organic pads on the front of every cable disc setup. 26.00 and worth every dime and then some.
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Although I used MTB BB7 calipers on the Conquest build with some creative cable routing at the calipers and extremely please with the results. I doubt a LBS would be willing to go outside spec for such an install.
Qualifier: using Di2 Brake/shifters, which pull a little more cable than Campy or pre 11s Shimano. But not quite as much as MTB levers.
"I'd go down to OR to steal Bob's but I'd also have to buy a ladder to get on and off the damned thing."
It is a 60, IIRC you are a 56-7?
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dfcas
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 2815
Location: hillbilly heaven10/24/18 12:29 PM |
Paul mak a brake for Campy pull called the Klamper, and its the best match for your situation. Alas, they are expensive. I tried the Spyre and the Avid BB7 and i thought the BB7 were a better match. BB7 's are dirt cheap. if I eventually go disc I'll probably go pauls, since my frame does not have flat mounts and I cannot go Campy hydraulic.
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RCoapman
Joined: 09 Feb 2005
Posts: 5141
Location: Back in the snowy homeland10/24/18 1:18 PM |
quote:
If you stick with Road disc calipers you will be fine.
Is this compared to MTB or are there CX-specific set ups? Would road brakes preclude me any off road? (Not that I'm planning that)
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19079
Location: PDX10/24/18 1:21 PM |
"Klamper"
They should do a commercial like the clapper light switch. ;)
$400.00+ for two calipers is pricey. But you can also change out actuating arm buying other lengths later if you upgrade needing different without buying new calipers again, nice.
And they make IS and Flat mounts, also nice. But Paul's stuff is always pimp pretty much. ;)
Campy road brake pull is less than even pre last 10s speed and 11s Shimano. equal to Ultegra 8 speed 6400 IIRC.
Having said that, compression-less housings help a lot. For example if Campy pulls 2mm less in a stroke, and you eliminate 1-2mm of compression with the housings...
Isn't the ratio difference 1.3 VS 1.4 or something?
_____
Here is a pic of how I routed the ST-6870 Di2 cable to actuate BB7 MTB calipers.
The cable is supposed to go over the curved top of the actuator arm. So I effectively shortened the lever.
I had also got compression-less JAG housings, but they had not come in and I used regular Shimano Road housings. I am leaving the Shimano and not putting on the compression-less, works excellent. So I have a $48.00 roll of the JAG housing on the pegboard wall, ;) 10 meters worth.
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19079
Location: PDX10/24/18 4:10 PM |
Just a thought for you Rob. Before you invest in that PT wheel... If you are going to score a disc gravel/CX bike, it will likely be thru axle. So unless your PT wheel is a disc Hub, you need to get ahead of your hardware, so to speak.
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RCoapman
Joined: 09 Feb 2005
Posts: 5141
Location: Back in the snowy homeland10/24/18 10:06 PM |
It's not. It would have to be replaced
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RCoapman
Joined: 09 Feb 2005
Posts: 5141
Location: Back in the snowy homeland10/25/18 3:54 PM |
Thanks. Probably going to try for a frame and xfer as much as I can over. but 55-56 is spot on. ;)
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henoch
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 1690
10/26/18 7:54 AM |
Good see I am not losing my mind :).
The Fuji Jari frame would be a good bet, I think its around $500.
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19079
Location: PDX10/26/18 11:26 AM |
The 2.5 Steel Fuji for $899.00 may be a good base.
Reynolds 520 chromoly, rack & fender mounts, Triple bottle mount, Flat mount disc, top tube bento box mount.
Lots of braze-ons, including two a top the TT, bento Box mount. That is Cool. Adventure/gravel/commuter. ;)
I have a soft small pack that sit a top with velcro straps around TT and Steer tube below stem with enough spacers. ;) For towny bopping I love having shit right on top, like the phone and more.
And like my Conquest, QR front and rear with a BSA Threaded BB.
BTW Rob, I am using Shimano hubs/cassettes on both my 11s Campy bikes. Shift perfectly.
An additional note: Merlin cycles Centaur 11s groupo $450.00. That and a CS-M8000 11-34 Shimano cassette that will fit on all 8/9/10/11s Shimano freehub.
You could use the brakes/wheels on the 899.00 Fuji with that cassette. Sell off the extra bits and your conquest.
just some spit balling...
Be prepared for more weight, and no PTap unless yours is a disc hub.
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