CYCLINGFORUM.COM - Where Cyclists Talk Tech --- Return To Home

 

    Register FAQ'sSearchProfileLog In / Log Out

 

****

cyclingforum.com ****

HOMECLUBS | SPONSORS | FEATURESPHOTO GALLERYTTF DONORS | SHOP FOR GEAR

Return to CyclingForum Home Page CYCLING TECH TALK FORUM
          View posts since last visit

Canti brakes squeaking
 

Author Thread Post new topic Reply to topic
RCoapman
Joined: 09 Feb 2005
Posts: 4685
Location: Probably on a boat on Puget Sound

10/23/18 1:48 PM

Canti brakes squeaking

First day riding to work...holy moley are they loud. I forget if it's toe-in or toe-out to fix the horrendous, banshee-like screeching?

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16793
Location: Portland, OR

10/23/18 1:56 PM

either or, put a dime under the rear of the pad and squeeze brake, loosen then tighten while pulling the lever pretty hard. Let go lever, dime drops, repeat other side then rear.

I find it easiest to do the dime under the leading pad edge front, and trailing rear. away form fork and stays etc.

Once the pads wear you'll know as the squeel restarts.
Use Salmon Kool Stops to help performance and noise.

Also, use a sink sponge with the green scrubby side on the rims with some dawn, scrub, rinse well. dry with clean rags, or compressed air.

But this is the best fix really:

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

RCoapman
Joined: 09 Feb 2005
Posts: 4685
Location: Probably on a boat on Puget Sound

10/23/18 2:37 PM

I've actually been looking at redline's site today and all I find is BMX...they offer a catalog for cx stuff....I feel like I'm doing something wrong.

I have a conquest pro frame I'm riding but it's pre disc brakes....

 Reply to topic    

dfcas
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 2512
Location: hillbilly heaven

10/23/18 2:52 PM

I think Redline got out of the cross bike business.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16793
Location: Portland, OR

10/23/18 3:00 PM

"conquest pro frame"

Scandium ?


I got the one pictured a few months ago NIB 2014 off a local guy and Di2ed it up.

Looks like Reline may have got out of the non BMX bike market, 2015 is the newest I see googling at all.

You could put a disc fork on yours and a TRP 8CM mini V brake in the rear. Keep your current shifters/levers? Chorus wasn't it?

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16793
Location: Portland, OR

10/23/18 3:18 PM

Apparently ACCELL Group bought out Redline 2015 and only markets BMX since.

Basically discontinued adult lines.

Explains how I got lucky with the NIB/NOS 2014 frameset for $260.00.


That does suck IMO. I am not an Aluminum fan really, but I grabbed the 2014 knowing that 40mm Tubeless tires would [and do] make frame feel moot.

Not only is it a perfect fit for me, I am quite impressed with it overall.


Last edited by Sparky on 10/23/18 3:25 PM; edited 1 time in total

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

RCoapman
Joined: 09 Feb 2005
Posts: 4685
Location: Probably on a boat on Puget Sound

10/23/18 3:20 PM

"Basically discontinued adult lines. "

[bad words]!!!

 Reply to topic    

RCoapman
Joined: 09 Feb 2005
Posts: 4685
Location: Probably on a boat on Puget Sound

10/23/18 5:38 PM

Also, it was kind of funny how old habits die hard....I haven't turned a pedal with any regularity since commuting to work in PDX in 2013. My ride into work is relatively short but I was bent over the bars going as fast as my very out of shape heart would take me.

 Reply to topic    

Craig
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 556

10/23/18 9:02 PM

Good to know I'm not the only one still riding cantilevers. I've always had better luck toeing "in" (front end of brakes touches the rim first). A dime's worth is about right.

Also, for rear brakes, assuming asymmetrical brake pads (post is offset one way or the other) I've often had better luck with stopping the rear ones from squealing by putting them in backwards. Usually the longer part of the brake pad trails backwards, I find putting the longer part forwards on a rear brake and then toeing it in the normal way (the part facing the front of the bike, which is technically the back end of the brake pad, man this is confusing to type out) touches first. Don't do this with cartridge brake pads as, if the pin falls out, you run the risk of the wheel pulling the pad out of the holder.

I agree, salmon Koolstops are the way to go. Sand/file any glazing off the pads. If your brake pads are 5 years old they may have hardened and putting fresh pads on might help too.

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16793
Location: Portland, OR

10/23/18 9:30 PM

Still have a canti set up on the steel tandem we got cheap to replace the IBIS.

2 other canti post bikes here have mini Vs. One set 8CM arms the other 8.4. The 8CM one work better with old pull brake levers.

But performance wise, 8CM mini front and a full size rear V with road levers [campy or pre 11s shimano] works great. I want less brake in the back personally.

2 Disc bikes here are 180 front/160 rear. And two road caliper brake sets here are Campy Skeletons. Single pivot rear dual pivot front. I am on board with more front brake than rear all the way.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

dfcas
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 2512
Location: hillbilly heaven

10/24/18 8:47 AM

Rob if the problem is in the front you may be experiencing fork chatter on an aluminum frame/fork which is a much different beast that on a steel or ti frame. its much higher frequency, almost a shrieck.

If your fork has a hole drilled in the crown I suggest you install a brake cable stop there. it almost always solves this problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Front-Cable-Hanger-Black/dp/B006GHDRYC

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16793
Location: Portland, OR

10/24/18 9:12 AM

The mini-V brake also fixes the fork bounce syndrome FYI.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

dfcas
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 2512
Location: hillbilly heaven

10/24/18 10:04 AM

I hate mini V's with Campy levers. I've tried 3 times and they just dont pull enough cable. Either the pads are too close or the brakes are too loose. It would work with a travel agent but thats more complexity than i choose to deal with. hate mini v's with campy levers.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

RCoapman
Joined: 09 Feb 2005
Posts: 4685
Location: Probably on a boat on Puget Sound

10/24/18 10:35 AM

I'll try the simple options first, Kool Stops. I'd forgotten about those.

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16793
Location: Portland, OR

10/24/18 11:33 AM

"hate mini v's with campy levers."

We may have had this convo before.

But I wanna ask [again?] what length arms on the Mini-V?

I have found 8CM max. 84mm I needed the kludgy cable ratio pulley things. Which if you don't get right first time out you'd better have some extra cables and a boxes mouth piece. ;) Now those I hate..

The other possible issue with the 80mm arm V-brakes is the cable from one arm to the other with bigger tires of course. 42mm tires seems to be abut the max, less with fenders...

At least the canti stradle is way up and away from the tire.

But I have had issue anchoring the stop on the fork crown not allowing the right ration for the brakes more often than not with 400mm forks. MTN bikes not a problem. Ridged CX/Hybrid/Tandem 400mm +/- Axle to crown length forks, can't get right pull ratio.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 4177
Location: Nashua, NH

10/25/18 2:05 PM

I've had mixed results with Mini-Vs

With the correct brakes, they work OK with Campy levers. The rim clearance isn't huge, but it's fine for anything other than really gloppy conditions. That said, their braking power is definitely lacking. After an incident on a long 12%+ dirt descent in VT where I could not slow the bike down in dry conditions - even squeezing both brakes to the bar - I decided that I'd had enough with rim brakes off-road and bought a disc-brake rig.

I haven't had any better luck with Cantis and the shuddering problem was a major pain with them. The bike still does it with Mini-Vs, though not as bad, which leads me to believe the problem is a crappy fork. To me, rim brakes don't make any sense for off-road use and I won't ever buy another off-road bike with them.

Sparky, Sparky, Sparky...you should know that rim brakes should always be toed IN, front and rear. The reason is very simple; the pads tend to toe out as the caliper flexes under braking. Toeing IN improves the pad contact with the rim and therefore braking power. Toeing the pads OUT would (dangerously) reduce the amount of pad contact and braking power. That's a no-no. Getting rid of the squeal is rather pointless if the brakes don't work. ;-)

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16793
Location: Portland, OR

10/25/18 2:21 PM

Done it both ways honestly. But not had performance issue, once the shoe flattens and full surface length of the pad is in play it stops. Maybe I get away with it due to the Dura Carriers and Dura Salmon cartridge pads.

Not being able to stop with mini Vs is not a problem I have had.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16793
Location: Portland, OR

10/26/18 3:39 PM

>"hate mini v's with campy levers."

>We may have had this convo before.

>But I wanna ask [again?] what length arms on the Mini-V?

In an earlier thread/Dan had said:
"I tried mini V's with campy levers twice and took them off immediately twice. ....The ones I tried were TRP 8.4's"

Looking for something else with the search I got my answer to this question. ;)

8.4CM, this supports my comments of 8.4CM VS 8CM.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Nick Payne
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 2388
Location: Canberra, Australia

10/26/18 6:10 PM

A brake booster (horseshoe-shaped reinforcement between the ends of the two canti studs) can help alleviate the problem, as it helps prevent the studs flexing away from each other as the brakes are applied. They can look prettu ugly, though:



p.s. I've found that brakes on forks with the studs on the back of the fork blade tend to squeal far less under braking, as the pull of the brake pads in the direction of rim rotation tends to counteract the tendency of the studs to bow out from the pressure of the pads against the rim. Can really only be done with v-brakes, not cantis, as there's no room for the straddle cable. Here's an example of one on an Ibis tandem:

 Reply to topic    

Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 4177
Location: Nashua, NH

10/27/18 4:47 PM

Sparky, I think you may be a bit confused about the sizes of Mini-V brakes. TRP makes an 8.4cm brake for Campy (what I have) and a 9CM brake for Shimano. Is someone else making an 8CM brake?

If so, it would improve rim clearance at the cost of braking power. Considering that the 8.4cm brakes are already marginal in the latter regard, that's not a trade-off that I would want to make.

BTW, I use Kool Stop Salmon pads on all of my rim-brake bikes.

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16793
Location: Portland, OR

10/27/18 6:53 PM

I use Tektro 926 AL with Dura carriers and salmons, 8CM works fantastic.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 4177
Location: Nashua, NH

10/29/18 4:34 PM

With Campy brake levers?

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16793
Location: Portland, OR

10/29/18 9:17 PM

Mirage, the lever was just a little closer to bar full stroke [but not a problem] than the Shimano with approx 2mm more pull for the stroke.

I have not used them with 11s Shimano levers, that might be better with the 84mm arms. But not tried that yet.

I tried the 84mm with new success Sachs 8 speed campy body ergos, remember those. That was not good with or without the inline pulley cable ratio devices.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail


Return to CyclingForum Home Page CYCLING TECH TALK FORUM
           View New Threads Since My Last Visit VIEW THREADS SINCE MY LAST VISIT
           Start a New Thread

 Display posts from previous:   


  
Last Thread | Next Thread  >  

  
  

 


If you enjoy this site, please consider pledging your support

cyclingforum.com - where cyclists talk tech
Cycling TTF Rides Throughout The World

Cyclingforum is powered by SYNCRONICITY.NET in Denver, Colorado -

Powered by phpBB: Copyright 2006 phpBB Group | Custom phpCF Template by Syncronicity