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Dave B
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 4511
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

2/27/14 10:52 AM


quote:
But does the big-big combo rubs (makes noise)? If not, does it REALLY wear the chain more?

Yes it does. Chains are designed to run in a completely straight line which is why industrial chains are laboriously aligned and why single speed chains, if set up correctly, last so long. Any deviation from that straight line wears the chain faster and big-big is the most serious misalignment. Small-small has alignment problems too but, as you notice, it often makes other noises so you don't stay in it much.

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Nick Payne
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 2626
Location: Canberra, Australia

2/27/14 1:55 PM


quote:
But does the big-big combo rubs (makes noise)? If not, does it REALLY wear the chain more?

Yes. Chains are designed to run in a straight line. The sprocket pitch on S10 cassettes is 3.95mm, and the chainring pitch about twice that. So if the crankset is setup with the two chainrings centred on the cassette, then when you are in the big-big or small-small combination, the two ends of the chain are offset by approximately 20mm, which equates to about a three degree bend at each end of the chain.

The synchronising chain on our tandem last several times as long as the drive chain, because it never runs in anything except a dead straight line.

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dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3345
Location: NorCal

3/6/14 6:08 PM

" ...Yes it does. Chains are designed to run in a completely straight line which is why industrial chains are laboriously aligned and why single speed chains, if set up correctly, last so long. Any deviation from that straight line wears the chain faster and big-big is the most serious misalignment. Small-small has alignment problems too but, as you notice, it often makes other noises so you don't stay in it much."

As far along as chains have evolved, I'd have to say that modern chains are specifically designed to run at the whole range of angles that a bike can be shifted into, except for the useless small-to-small combination that has the chain rubbing on adjacent, larger ring(s).

This began in earnest when bushing chain became bushingless, allowing each inner plate with their own (now very narrow) bushings to shift alongside the paired inner plate to apply tension nearer to both ends of the pin, instead of a friction-addled push-and-pull binding on the pin.
It also allowed the inner and outer sideplates to maintain less-forceful contact with one another, further lowering friction and lubrication requirements.

While I usually try to maintain a reasonable chainline in any longer-duration selection of gear, I also use the big ring nearly all of the time except on steeper grades. Only when a crossed gear would be used for an extended period would I find it worthwhile to shift down in front, but I can't say how my energy economy or my chain wear economy are actually effected by my choice of gear, other than that I avoid the momentum-robbing front downshift when staying in the bigger ring seems to get me over the hill faster.

I usually break in new chain and sprockets by riding forcefully uphill in the fully-crossed big-to-big combination, my feeling being that it is better to force conformity between all the rubbing surfaces before a new chain becomes contaminated with grit. More of a subtle burnishing and cold-working of wear surfaces than of simply wearing them away with abrasive dust.
The aggressive break-in does seem to immediately improve the smoothness of cross-chain transmission, and my chain measurements show absolutely no measurable increase in chain "stretch" wear because of it.

Modern chain is amazing stuff, all the design, metallurgy and process steps that go into it.
Especially the very scant lubrication that is required today, such that a well-maintained chain can be very clean just from wiping with good terrycloth and with occasional very light application of lube.

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